Installing a TFI Distributor in 5.0 Mustang

For those who don't know how to install and line up a distributor, here is one way to do it.
First make a highly visible mark on your damper at 10 degrees.  It will help you line up the marks and makes it easier to see when setting the timing.  Mine has a mark at 0 and 10 since the mark may be out of view when I'm using the timing light.

Next, using a breaker bar or big ratchet on the center bolt on the damper, turn the crank clockwise until the #1 piston is moving upward for the compression stroke. This is much easier to do with the spark plugs removed.  
You have to determine when the #1 cylinder compression stroke is about to happen. This can be done a few ways.  One way is with the passenger side valve cover removed, turn the crank until the front most intake valve opens then closes -- that will be the start of the compression stroke. On my engine, the headers are not installed yet so I used the #1 exhaust valve closing event as the start of the intake stroke and turned the crank until the timing marks came back around.
Start turning the crank clockwise slowly, when the piston nearly reaches the top, you should see the timing marks approaching the pointer. Carefully, bump the crank clockwise until the 10 degree BTC mark is lined up with the pointer.  If you go past to 0 remember to reverse past 10 degrees because of minor slop in the timing chain, then come back to 10.

Now, figure out how you want the distributor clocked.  On mine, I wanted the TFI plug turned so it points toward the power steering pump or AC compressor. This will leave enough room to adjust timing + or -. Then, with the rotor installed, line up the rotor tip close to the #1 wire.  This is marked in the top of the distributor cap. I usually mark the distributor where #1 is lined up with the cap.  Next, turn the rotor to a point just past the #1 mark counter-clockwise.  Drop the distributor in the bore and wiggle it to line up with the oil pump drive shaft.  The rotor will move clockwise toward your #1 mark as the helical drive gears mesh on the way down.  Once all the way home look at the rotor tip alignment.  If it doesnt point at your mark, try moving the body a little. If there is not enough room left for adjusting the timing then pull it back out and drop it in again with the rotor slightly repositioned until it lines up.  Install the distrib hold down loosely.
If you get this lined up right, it should start and idle on the first try.   Remove the pip jumper plug and hook up a timing light and set to exactly 10 degrees.  Dont forget to replace the pip jumper after and tighten the hold down bolt.

5.0 Engine Installation

Since the weather has improved,  I have been itching to get some Mustang work done -- actually, the nice weather inspires be to go for a ride in my 65 Mustang but it needs a little work before I can drive it.

I stopped by Quality Rental in Carmel on the way home from work and picked up the hoist and got to work upon arriving home. 

 The first order of business was to cut the hole for the RJM Injection Tech EFI harness while the engine was out of the way.   This needs to be an oval hole 1.5" x 3" to fit the rubber grommet supplied by RJM.  It was simple to do by marking the 2 center points 1.5" apart, drilling, then trimming the triangular 

pieces to complete the oval.   I chose the location so that the harness would be less prominent based on what Brad suggested.

EDIT: The hole actually cannot be in the middle.  My harness from RJM Injection is well wrapped and branches off to either side of the intake in precise locations.  I could probably re-wrap the harness but they did a nice job wrapping and it would be easier to redo the hole where the instructions say.  

Next, I installed the used bell housing to my new Tremmec super heavy-duty T-5. Here are the specs for this tranny:

Ford Racing Super Heavy-Duty "World Class" T-5 5-speed Transmission.
Features double-moly 2nd, 3rd and countershaft cluster gears, carbon-fiber 3-4 blocker rings, 1-1/16" diameter 10-tooth input spline, 28-tooth output spline and Cobra style pocket bearing. Rated for 330 ft-lbs. torque. Fill with Mercon/Dextron ATF.
Ratios: 1st - 2.95, 2nd - 1.94, 3rd - 1.34, 4th - 1.00, and 5th - 0.63.

I hooked up the hoist and engine tilter to the engine and removed it from the stand.
After that, I bolted on the new pressure plate and clutch disc.  Nothing special here, just the basic stock replacement parts.  The stock t-5 and clutch survived more than 10 years in my 93 Fox Mustang -- and that was supercharged and dyno'ed at 320 horses at the wheels. I also raced it quite often and only the part I had to replace was the thow-out bearing after 103000 miles.
With the clutch ready to go, I tilted the engine to line up with the tranny and bolted together.   Tip: using the clutch alignment tool to get an idea of the rotation of the clutch disc splines and rotate the transmission's input shaft's splines to match. Everything slips together with very little effort.   Also, apply some anti-seize lube to the engine's bell alignment pins.  I found that this helps installation and, years later, removal.
I highly recommend using an engine tilter especially when the tranny is attached.  I've installed engines lots of times in the past without one and it was a real pain having to unbolt and reposition the chain to the right angle.  Using the tilter to get the right angle is just a matter of buzzing it with the impact gun.

The engine basically just dropped right in and with the engine mounts supplied by Total Cost Involved, it was a snap to line up.  The extra space left after removal of the shock towers helped a lot too.   I could almost stand in the engine bay with the engine if needed. I should be able to bolt in pretty much any exhaust header without clearance issues.  

Here are some of the torque specs and bolts I used:
Transmission to bellhousing  - 30 ft-lbs w/ Loctite
Pressure plate bolts              - 25 ft-lbs w/ Loctite
Bell to Engine                       - 30 ft-lbs
Bell to Engine bolts were 7/16" coarse - grade 8
Tranny to bell were M12 x 1.5 - grade 8

Out of the stable

The weekend's weather was nice enough to do some work outside so I thought I'd give this 65 Mustang some fresh air.  I managed to accomplish some work too.  The old door mechanicals were removed and will be residing in their new doors soon. The doors I had are just too far gone to warrant repairs.  The interior side on one door is rusted out and slathered with Bondo (not a good look) and the other door also rusted out and is bent where the hinge mounts are -- looks like its Ivy Green donor was in an accident. Incidentally, mine was originally Silver Blue
The picture shows what the ride height will be like at the front end. Pretty low already and the engine is not even installed yet. The coilovers are pretty stiff. Also, with the 96 Mustang 17" Cobra wheels mounted, theres not a whole lot of clearance but there is no contact without rolling the fenders. The tires are 245 45 17 in case you're wondering.
Kinda looks like crazy old-school rake is going on (not my taste) but its just that the rear has new springs and it sits really high with only the 100 pounds weight on it. 
The engine and T-5 transmission go in next.

On 4 wheels

For the first time since I owned the car, it is resting on its own four wheels and a suspension.  It sounds like an insignificant moment but to me its very encouraging.  This 65 mustang can now be endowed with its drive train and eventually move under its own power and the thought of that makes want to get out there and turn wrenches to hasten that moment's arrival.  

Front Suspension - Completed

To complete the install of the Total Cost Involved front end, I primed and painted the Mustang's frame and cross member parts and control arms and got the fasteners organized.   

I started the installation with the lower control arms and coil-over shocks.  This was extremely easy.  Its just a matter of bolting the parts in place.  No adjustments needed.  Next came the upper control arms.  This was also simple but required some thick washers to be added for setting the initial camber.   

This step was followed by installing the pre-assembled spindles.  When I ordered the front end kit from the dealer, Ryan at Stang-Aholics, I opted for the basic disc and caliper and it comes ready to install with bearings packed and calipers and pads already in place.  

After that, I installed the power steering rack.  The rack needs to be steered to the center point on the range so that the steering wheel will be centered. At this point I set the toe-in to roughly 1/8" at the rotors and spun the tie-rod ends on to equal turns and attached them to the spindles.

Lastly, I installed the sway bar.  I decided to leave it a steel finish and clear coat it.   

Finally, the suspension install is complete and ready for the engine and wheels.  Just in time since I need to push the car out of the garage to do some electrical work on the house.

Next, after painting the firewall and the rest of the floor underneath, I will be installing the RJM Injection EFI harness and the ECU.

Sway bar mount

The old strut rod mount and sway bar bracket had to be removed and the new sway bar mount installed in its place.  This requires drilling out 13 or 14 spot welds on each mount/bracket and separating the parts from the frame.  Sounds easy but if you dont cut all of the welds or miss a little bit, the task is a real knuckle buster.  I did eventually get the old parts off but not without cutting the parts a little to make the job easier. 

The new Total Cost Involved sway bar brackets were pretty easy to install.  I just cleaned up the area with the grinder, clamped it in place and welded.  Welding was easier since I only had to attach the 3/16" thick bracket to thick sheet metal frame rail.

While the primer was drying, I finished installing the rear end.  Always nice to see some more parts installed.  Its starting to look like a car and will be on four wheels soon. 

Next: Front Suspension Completed

Front Suspension 7

I was unpacking the box with the power steering rack and came across some parts that I didn't realize that I had.   A new sway bar and its mounting hardware.  I was going to install one as a later upgrade but of course I'll mount that puppy now.   This means removing the old sway bar mounts and strut rod mounts and installing the Total Cost Involved sway bar brackets

... And I thought I was done welding.

Next: Sway Bar Mount

Front Suspension 6

Once everything was plumb and square, I completely welded around the cross member's contact points. After a finish grinding I was ready to install the A-arm/shock towers.

The A-arm/shock tower is bolted in place using the alignment hole and clamped against the frame rail for tack welding.  After clamping, I noticed that the tower was not square to the frame rail and cross member so I had to add a thin shim between the frame rail and the tower.  Once lined up right, I tacked it in place and removed the clamps.

The final welds were done with my Millermatic 140 MIG welder cranked up to 100 and wire speed at 67. I could have definitely used a little more power but I was able to accomplish it with more than one pass in some places.

The front end welding is finally complete! If I was impatient I would start bolting parts on now but I think I'll resist the temptation.


  Any suggestions?

Next: Front Suspension Part 7