Thursday, April 28, 2011

5.0 Engine Installation

Since the weather has improved,  I have been itching to get some Mustang work done -- actually, the nice weather inspires be to go for a ride in my 65 Mustang but it needs a little work before I can drive it.

I stopped by Quality Rental in Carmel on the way home from work and picked up the hoist and got to work upon arriving home. 
 The first order of business was to cut the hole for the RJM Injection Tech EFI harness while the engine was out of the way.   This needs to be an oval hole 1.5" x 3" to fit the rubber grommet supplied by RJM.  It was simple to do by marking the 2 center points 1.5" apart, drilling, then trimming the triangular 
pieces to complete the oval.   I chose the location so that the harness would be less prominent based on what Brad suggested.
EDIT: The hole actually cannot be in the middle.  My harness from RJM Injection is well wrapped and branches off to either side of the intake in precise locations.  I could probably re-wrap the harness but they did a nice job wrapping and it would be easier to redo the hole where the instructions say.  

Next, I installed the used bell housing to my new Tremmec super heavy-duty T-5. Here are the specs for this tranny:
Ford Racing Super Heavy-Duty "World Class" T-5 5-speed Transmission.
Features double-moly 2nd, 3rd and countershaft cluster gears, carbon-fiber 3-4 blocker rings, 1-1/16" diameter 10-tooth input spline, 28-tooth output spline and Cobra style pocket bearing. Rated for 330 ft-lbs. torque. Fill with Mercon/Dextron ATF.
Ratios: 1st - 2.95, 2nd - 1.94, 3rd - 1.34, 4th - 1.00, and 5th - 0.63.
I hooked up the hoist and engine tilter to the engine and removed it from the stand.
After that, I bolted on the new pressure plate and clutch disc.  Nothing special here, just the basic stock replacement parts.  The stock t-5 and clutch survived more than 10 years in my 93 Fox Mustang -- and that was supercharged and dyno'ed at 320 horses at the wheels. I also raced it quite often and only the part I had to replace was the thow-out bearing after 103000 miles.
With the clutch ready to go, I tilted the engine to line up with the tranny and bolted together.   Tip: using the clutch alignment tool to get an idea of the rotation of the clutch disc splines and rotate the transmission's input shaft's splines to match. Everything slips together with very little effort.   Also, apply some anti-seize lube to the engine's bell alignment pins.  I found that this helps installation and, years later, removal.
I highly recommend using an engine tilter especially when the tranny is attached.  I've installed engines lots of times in the past without one and it was a real pain having to unbolt and reposition the chain to the right angle.  Using the tilter to get the right angle is just a matter of buzzing it with the impact gun.

The engine basically just dropped right in and with the engine mounts supplied by Total Cost Involved, it was a snap to line up.  The extra space left after removal of the shock towers helped a lot too.   I could almost stand in the engine bay with the engine if needed. I should be able to bolt in pretty much any exhaust header without clearance issues.  
Here are some of the torque specs and bolts I used:
Transmission to bellhousing  - 30 ft-lbs w/ Loctite
Pressure plate bolts              - 25 ft-lbs w/ Loctite
Bell to Engine                       - 30 ft-lbs
Bell to Engine bolts were 7/16" coarse - grade 8
Tranny to bell were M12 x 1.5 - grade 8


  1. People disparage the T5 as being weak. I'd argue the people breaking them are driving without "respect". By respect I mean treating your stuff with care. No street race win is worth replacing a T5 yet kids out there continue to slam shift without mercy. The forces the T5 must withstand during a slam shift are much higher than the rated capacity even with a stock motor. Driven like an adult a T5 can live behind 400ft/lb easy. Okay, stepping off soapbox...... :-)

    Your car is shaping up well, keep up the good work!

  2. Hi guys, this is Jacob from Colorado, I've been chatting with Brad for awhile now. It's neat to see some of the alterations based on experience. I'm currently trying to get all my systems planned, but ultimately I need to just get the motor and tranny in! The rest will follow. I got the RMP motor mounts, because I only had one of the three parts of the '65 setup. Once it's all in I can see if the '95 tranny will fit, or if I need to get a '93 bellhousing, and I'll use the rebuilt '93 style tranny I bought. Ultimately by the time I get done, I will have two projects done since everything I'm not using can probably go in my uncle's Falcon or Fairlane... I'm toying with the David Stribling restorations crossmember, and adapting the 8.8 out of the '95 to work with the 4-link etc... using Anthony jones engineering parts. I took out the whole wiring harness from the '95 even though it's probably unnecessary, I figured since Brad mentioned the issues with the headlight feed on the '65, I felt better to have too many parts and plan it out, rather than being up that particular creek without a paddle. Since I have access for a little longer to the whole '95 car, I'll probably take the spindles off too just in case I decide on the AJE crossmember or use the Fatman Fabrications unit. I'm also looking into just using the stock suspension with a few upgrades, and using the Classic Performance Parts steering box to make it have power steering. Still gotta get the fine print this works with that crap and overall budget figured out. I know as it stands, I won't afford to drive the car anytime soon, but I can plan now. The overall look of it as far as brakes go is that I'll be forced to get new wheels.

    I kind of want 16s, but if I can find used daisy's for 15s cheap I may do that, or get the 15 inch styled steel wheel type. Mostly 17s look too big to me, on a '65 unless it's the torque thrust style, which look great, but it's so common! If I can afford it, I'd go with American Racing salt flats.

  3. Jacob,
    It sounds like you have a good project planned out. I'd be interested in seeing what you are starting with. Has the mustang already been restored or will that be part of the work?

    Hey, dont forget all of the relays and the inertia fuel shut off. The '95 fuel pump and float setup would be good to keep around if you are going that direction.

    If you can use the '95 harness for the headlights, I think you'd be ahead of the game.The headlight switch on mine was flakey and the wiring looked like it had gotten hot at some point so a relay setup made sense for my setup. I never saw what my headlights were like before the relays but they're pretty bright now.

    I think a blog is a great idea. It can serve as a diary and may even help someone else who is interested in doing the same work. An alternative is a build thread on a forum. Lots of people with similar interest can help you out when you post there but its a much smaller audience.

  4. So the plan so far: I have made slow slow progress but we took the engine out with all the stuff attatched. I removed all of the '95's harness and used RMP adjustable motor mounts so the motor is in the car now, I just have to swap out the '95 bell housing for the '93 bell I got and put in the '93 tranny I got. If nothing else I can put the '95 tranny behind my 200 and use it in another project. I was going to just adapt parts of the '95 harness for that very reason, Brad's blog mentioned the headlights and I've been keeping tabs on his build because he used a '95. I gotta see with him what he did as far as the oil pan and dipstick; problems you won't have with your '93. I assume you used older timing cover and a manual fan? I plan to keep the electric fan. My idea was, Ford already engineered it, just change as little as you have to to make it work. And while I liked Brad's idea on the AC (I may swap it later) currently I plan to just exnay the ac/ also an issue your '93 shouldn't have since they mount that stuff in better locations!

    1. I used the 93 style reverse water pump and timing cover and serpentine belt and clutch fan. There is also a 3 row '65 conversion radiator - input on top passenger side, output on bottom driver side. The dipstick is 93 style on the driver side of the engine.
      AC is something I wish I had.

  5. Been following your tank solution. Did you eventually buy a conversion tank? Tanksinc has a good setup and I know the aeromotive phantom setup looks great and lets you keep your tank but ultimately tanksinc tank with the pump was still cheaper! I actually was wondering how that '93 pump setup was working for you. Thought about duplicating it. As for baffles, the phantom setup uses a sock made of fuel cell foam and a rubber boot at the bottom. Could just stuffing fuel cell foam in an existing tank aid in the baffle problem? I have really no idea about fuel systems! But I guess I will learn one way or another. I just happened to already get a new stock tank whence my not wanting to buy a new one...

    1. I will need to get a conversion tank since mine doesnt have baffles. My suspension setup will let me corner hard and accelerate fast so I imagine I will have problems.
      The alternative is opening the existing tank and welding in baffles or using something like the fuel cell foam.

  6. Well, finally going to put the tranny in Sunday. What did either you or brad do for clutch setup? I broke down and got an aeromotive phantom kit, getting antsy! I'm going to need to use my noggin for wiring soon. Also last question for current issues, what did you and Brad use for the efi fuel line? I Tool Spur advice against the rmp sending unit, though I do have their motor mounts as I only had two pieces of the three on the '65 mounts. Ok will try to update Monday. Thanks guys!

    1. My clutch setup is a stock 93 mustang cable setup with a firewall mounted adjuster. I also made my own clutch cable quadrant conversion using the stock 65 clutch pedal. I recommend the Mustang Steve pedal conversion if you go that way.
      Not sure what Brad did for fuel lines(braided line I think). My lines are large diameter (3/8" I think) standard steel tubing and stock 93 mustang quick disconnects. I'm converting to the braided EFI hose once I save up some cash since I didnt bend the hard lines well and they look crappy.
      The RMP sending unit is the easiest way to get the fuel gauge to work but requires an external pump. Maybe another company makes a better sending unit or RMP improved theirs. There is always the custom EFI conversion tank option too.
      You should set up a blog on google blogger or create an account on one of the Mustang sites like and start a build thread so you can easily post pictures of your Mustang. I know I'd like to see them and read about your project too.

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